Category Archives: Beaujolais

A lunch at Aubergine – 2012 Jean Foillard Morgon Beaujolais

Today Aussie Wine Guy and colleagues had the opportunity to dine at the well regarded Aubergine restaurant in the heart of Griffith, in the heart of Canberra.

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As everyone’s orders were slightly different, we needed a wine which would compliment a fairly diverse range of textures and flavours.  AWG’s initial temptation was to order a bottle of either new world or old world Pinot Noir, however the house sommelier had a much more inspired suggestion: Beaujolais.

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Beaujolais had acquired a bit of a nasty reputation in more recent decades, mainly as “cheap plonk”, and perhaps had been all but written off until recent vintages.  Then, unexpectedly, came a new wave of quality releases – and the basis for the recommendation today.

The specific label recommended – a 2012 Jean Foillard Morgon “Côte du Py” – is a remarkable wine made organically (never using synthetic herbicides or pesticides) and with such attention to detail that only the healthiest grapes make the vintage.  It paired brilliantly with our selections. 

Aubergine is a first rate establishment, with impeccable service.  It is rated amongst the top restaurants in town and for good reason.  The food, presentation and atmosphere harken to an era when dining out was not just an occasion to eat, but to be experienced!  At this, Aubergine certainly delivers. 

Rather than describe each dish, AWG prefer to let the pictures do the talking.

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Shiro kin wagyu rump cap, celtuce, marinated leeks, oyster vinaigrette

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Bangalow sweet pork neck, parsley root, braised endive, muntries

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Chocolate and praline delicé, vanilla cream, lemon curd

The three course affair was most pleasing to the tastebuds, each dish was expertly crafted to provide a gourmet contrast to the wine.    Speaking of.. if you have written off beaujolais.. now’s a good time to take another look.

This wine had a most agreeable body, the bouquet was a powerful and tempting array of flavours (currants and a hint of cloves) which was well met by a suple and smooth textured finish – a fine array of complimentary flavours, from berries to spices and complete with well structured tannins which seem to hold up to scrutiny one might reserve for a highly praised Bordeaux!

Indeed it’s an interesting time for Beaujolais, AWG wouldn’t be surprised if the wine wasn’t overdue for a resurgence in what is an increasingly competitive market.  Keep an eye on this region.

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